Bedienungsanleitung Multiplex Sonicliner (Seite 9 von 36) (Deutsch, Englisch, Französisch, Italienisch, Spanisch)

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Important note

This model is not made of styrofoam™! It is

not

possible to glue the material using white glue or

epoxy. Please be sure to use cyano-acrylate glue

exclusively, preferably in conjunction with cyano

activator (kicker). For all joints use medium-

viscosity cyano-acrylate (“cyano”), e.g. “ZACKi

medium viscosity”. When gluing Elapor ® always

use this procedure: spray one surface with

activator, allow it to air-dry, then apply cyano

(ZACKi) to the other side. Join the parts and

position them accurately immediately.

Please take care when working with cyano

adhesives. These materials harden in

seconds, so do not allow them to get onto

your fingers or other parts of your body. It

is important to wear goggles to protect your

eyes. Keep the adhesive out of the reach of

children.

1. Before starting construction

Please check that the contents of your kit are complete.

You will find Fig. 1 and the Parts List helpful for this.

Assembling the model:

2. Piercing the cable tunnels

Continue the tunnels for the cables 7 through the

fuselage 1 and into the engine nacelles using a bradawl

or a round file. This is best done by inverting the model

and twisting the bradawl through, working from the

existing cable duct. Remove all loose foam particles.

Fig. 2

3. Assembling the fuselage

Glue the top and bottom parts of the fuselage nose 2 +

3 together. Fig. 3

Offer up the joined nose section 2 + 3 to the fuselage 1,

then glue the parts together. Ensure that the edges line

up accurately. Fig. 4

4. Internal fuselage fittings

Install the latch clips 22 in the fuselage. This is done by

spraying activator in the recesses and allowing it to air-

dry. Apply cyano to the joint surfaces of the latch clips

and immediately place them in position. Add more cyano

if necessary to obtain strong joints. Glue the threaded

bush 34 in place with cyano. Fig. 5

5. Installing the aileron servos and motors

Trial-fit the servos in the moulded-in recesses. You may

need to make slight adjustments to suit the servos you

are using. Fit the cables through the ducts. Shrink a

piece of heat-shrink sleeving round each servo (or wrap

in adhesive tape), then glue the servos in their recesses.

Note: don’t be tempted to glue the servos in place

without wrapping them in sleeving or tape, as glue can

easily get inside the servo case and ruin it. Fig. 6

Installing the motors: the motors are fitted with basic

suppressors, but these need to be supplemented for

increased security. This is done by soldering a capacitor

70 between each motor terminal and the can, and a

third capacitor between the terminals. Fit the motor

power leads through the terminals and solder them and

the capacitors in place at the same time. Check at this

early stage that both motors are set up for “left-hand”

running (clockwise when you look at the motor shaft).

Fig. 6b. Glue the motors in the fixed part of the nacelles.

Take care not to allow glue to run inside the motors or

into the cooling slots. Check that the engine nacelles

are a snug fit. Fig. 6

6. The wing joiners

Carefully glue parts 11 and 12 in place using the method

described above. Take particular care that no glue gets

onto the surfaces which will make contact with the wing

joiners. Be careful here, otherwise you could find that

the model can never be dismantled again. When you

are certain that there is no active adhesive inside the

joiner sockets, check that the wing joiners 32 are a snug

fit in them. Fig. 7. Close the wing joiner sockets in the

outboard wing panels in a similar manner by fitting parts

13 + 14, but this time glue the wing joiners 32 to the

outboard wing panels 4 + 5. Fig. 8

7. Preparing the pushrod connectors (6 x)

Caution: note the orientation: 2 x left, 2 x right.

Attach the articulated pushrod connectors 25 to the

outermost hole in the horns 24 using the M1.6 x 4

countersunk screws 24. Tighten the screw just to the

point where the pushrod connector still swivels freely,

but does not wobble. With a little care you will find the

best combination of freedom of movement and lack of

slop. You may need to re-tighten the screw after the

first few flights. Fit the socket-head grubscrew 28 in the

articulated swivel block 26, then snap the swivel block

26 into the connector housing.

Note: when you need to undo the pushrod connector

again, e.g. for removing the outboard wing, this is very

easily done with the help of a screwdriver (blade width

approx. 4 mm). Slip the screwdriver blade between

connector housing and swivel block and twist it slightly

- the pushrod comes away, and can be re-fitted again

without disturbing the trim.

8. Checking the wing joiner system

Assemble the model using the wing joiners 32. Check

that the wings 4 + 5 line up correctly. Trim the parts

carefully if required. Fig. 10

9. Installing the horns, connecting the pushrods

Apply Activator to the horn recesses and slots and allow

it to air-dry. Apply Zacki to the horns and push them

into position. Take care that the pushrod connectors are

on the correct side of the horns! Set all servos to neutral

from the transmitter, connect the pushrods and tighten

the grubscrews on the opposite side to secure them.

Figs. 11 + 13

Multiplex Sonicliner Seite 9

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