Bedienungsanleitung DeWalt D712N T 3 (Seite 16 von 20) (Deutsch, Englisch, Holländisch, Dänisch, Französisch, Italienisch, Portugiesisch, Spanisch, Polnisch, Türkisch, Schwedisch, Norwegisch, Finnisch)

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ENGLISH

• Depress the head to allow the blade to cut through the timber and

enter the plastic kerf plate (31).

• After completing the cut, release the switch and wait for the saw

blade to come to a complete standstill before returning the head to

its upper rest position.

PERFORMING A SLIDING CUT (FIG. O)

The guide rail allows cutting larger workpieces from 50 x 100 mm up to

500 x 1000 mm using an out-down-back sliding motion.

• Release the rail lock knob (13).

• Pull the saw head towards you and switch the tool on.

• Lower the saw blade into the workpiece and push the head back

to complete the cut.

• Proceed as described above.

WARNING:

• Do not perform sliding cuts on workpieces smaller than

50 x 100mm.

• Remember to lock the saw head in the rear position when

the sliding cuts are finished.

VERTICAL MITRE CROSS-CUT (FIG. A1, P)

• Release the mitre lever (4) and depress the mitre latch (5). Move the

arm left or right to the required angle.

• The mitre latch will automatically locate at 10°, 15°, 22.5°, 31.62°

and 45° both left and right, and at 50° left and 60° right. If any

intermediate angle is required hold the head firmly and lock by

tightening the mitre lever.

• Always ensure that the mitre lever is locked tightly before cutting.

• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.

WARNING: When mitring the end of a piece of wood with

a small off-cut, position the wood to ensure that the off-

cut is to the side of the blade with the greater angle to the

fence; i.e. left mitre, off-cut to the right - right mitre, off-cut

to the left.

BEVEL CUTS (FIG. A1, A2 & Q)

Bevel angles can be set from 48° left to 2° right and can be cut with the

mitre arm set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position right

or left.

• Loosen the left side fence clamping knob (29) and slide the upper

part of the left side fence (3) to the left as far as it will go. Loosen

the bevel clamp handle (11) and set the bevel as desired.

• Tighten the bevel clamp handle (11) firmly.

• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.

Quality of Cut

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, e.g. the

material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and

other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower,

even cutting rate will produce the desired results.

WARNING: Ensure that the material does not creep while

cutting; clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade

come to a full stop before raising the arm. If small fibres of

wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece

of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made.

Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when

finished.

Body and Hand Position

Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the mitre

saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.

• Never place your hands near the cutting area.

• Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.

• Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.

Keep your hands in position until the switch has been released and

the blade has completely stopped.

• Always make dry runs (without power) before finish cuts so that

you can check the path of the blade.

• Do not cross your hands.

• Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance.

• As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly

to the side of the saw blade.

• Sight through the guard louvres when following a pencil line.

CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES & OTHER FOUR SIDED PROJECTS

(FIG. R1 & R2)

TRIM MOULDING AND OTHER FRAMES

Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel”

for your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one

shown in fig. R1. The joint shown has been made using either bevel

adjustment.

- Using bevel adjustment

The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a

90° corner. The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is

positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow

edge against the fence.

- Using mitre adjustment

The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad

surface against the fence. The two sketches (fig. R1 & R2) are for four

side objects only. As the number of sides changes, so do the mitre and

bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of

shapes, assuming that all sides are of equal length. For a shape that is

not shown in the chart, divide 180° by the number of sides to determine

the mitre or bevel angle.

No. of sides Angle mitre or bevel

4 45°

5 36°

6 30°

7 25.7°

8 22.5°

9 20°

10 18°

COMPOUND MITRE (FIG. S1 & S2)

A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fig. R2) and a

bevel angle (fig. R1) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to

make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fig. S1.

WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut,

check that the bevel clamp knob and the mitre lock knob

are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened

after making any changes in bevel or mitre.

• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel

and mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the

chart, select the desired angle “A” (fig. S2) of your project and

locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that

point follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle

and straight across to find the correct mitre angle.

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45

SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW

SET THIS MITER ANGLE ON SAW

ANGLE OF SIDE OF BOX (ANGLE"A")

SQUARE BOX

6 SIDED BOX

8 SIDED BOX

DeWalt D712N T 3 Seite 16

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